We never made it up to the squinting eye floating above it all. You may imagine it would be for administrators only. |
We never made it up to the squinting eye floating above it all. You may imagine it would be for administrators only. |
These east windows reflect the landscape in the next photo. To reach the entrance, walk very far along the lefthand side |
Looks like an amphitheater at this end (the east end) |
I went walking in the last hours before Shabbat began about a month ago, I wanted to be alone with my camera and I was. The site of the new library is across the valley from my home, just a couple of bus stops. Not much of it can be seen from my side. Some trees get in the way. As I see it it’s a giant skateboard ramp, one Paul Bunyan would have used had he ever thought of skateboarding.
Eastern end looking up |
Landscapers have gone wildly beyond themselves |
These are the busses you might need to take |
Due to the uncertainties of war, the opening of the new library, once scheduled for October 22, was delayed until today, October 29, 2024. I took these snapshots last month late on a Friday when the whole area was practically free of pedestrians and cars were few. Go there today and I would expect to see many.
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I suggest you go to the new webpage of the National Library, headed by an impressive aerial photo: https://www.nli.org.il/en. According to this website, on the day I accessed it, the opening date would have been October 22. If you click on the link today, everything has changed. Now I see that this is not a complete opening as most of the services will be either nonexistent or limited, and that includes the opening hours. Most discouraging of all, no more than 300 people will be allowed inside at any one time. I suppose this is due to the situation. The new library, after an unsuccessful coup attempt by politicians last Febuary,* promises to be inclusive and open to everyone. Let it be so.
(*The coup — an attempt to strip the library of its independence from the government — was stopped in its tracks when the university threatened to withdraw all of its books from the new library. Since that means most of the books, that would have been a problem.)
This Times of Israel story is wildly enthusiastic about how great it all is and will be: Jessica Steinberg, “Long-awaited National Library set to reopen with 11 floors and millions of stories” (Sept. 13, 2023).
There is also a Ha'aretz story, but it is likely locked up behind a paywall, so why bother?
Here is a more recent story from the Jerusalem Post.
(*They do not include the Middle East in their definition of “Asian Studies.”)
If you knew this place you would know it is hardly possible to squeeze through the crowds, particularly as you approach that low open gateway on the right side of the photo. Go through that gateway, turn right down a few stairs, and in a minute you will be sailing through the Crusader-built entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This place is the main reason the whole world, particularly the Christians who make up over ¼th of the human population, comes here, to the Christian Quarter.
The large open archway on the left of the picture marks the Muristan, or I should say the rebuilt Muristan. The main center of life during the Crusader occupation (1099-1187 CE), it was simply allowed to fall into ruins after they left. Only in the late 19th century was it rebuilt to look more or less as it is today, often incorporating bits and pieces of the earlier ruins. It is full of shops, especially shops with leather products (seeing this photo makes me smell the leather) along with felafel and shishlik restaurants. It’s likely to cost you 10 shekels a shot, but I still recommend the coffee with hel and loads of sugar, a lifesaver against fatigue. Not today, mind you, but in that future time when people will be around.
To me this photo tells it all. Pilgrimage tours to the holy city have screeched to a standstill. The hotels and shopkeepers are not the only victims of this war, as we know so well. The news is relentlessly invasive, and sometimes we simply must take refuge from it to try and heal the mental wounds inflicted, not on ourselves alone but on everyone. Peace be upon us, upon us all.
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If you need more evidence of the emptiness of al-Quds aka the Old City today, just try watching some recent “Relaxing Walker” videos. Here is one that walks you through first the New and then the Old City.
If you would rather see the commercial areas of Gaza shortly before the latest conflict got started, go to the channel called Arab Ambience. Of course it looks very different these last two weeks. If you watch the news you already know.
If you never heard the name “Muristan” before, try the Wiki entry. Read the first parts of it at least and see the photos.
David Grossman, “Who will we be when we rise from the ashes? Are we capable of understanding that what has occurred here is too immense and too terrible to be viewed through stale paradigms?”
It’s that time of year when the weather turns cooler and at long last the first light rains come down on Jerusalemites. It’s Sukkot, the Feast of Booths, when many eat and even sleep in palm-leaf covered huts in their back yards or balconies or in some cases on the sidewalks in front of their apartment buildings. One of autumn’s welcoming signs is the Squill Flower, or Khatsav (חצב) in Hebrew. It keeps its huge liquid-filled tubers dormant throughout the heat of summer. That way it can shoot up its dramatic spikes full of white star-like blossoms, often as tall as you are, when the annual drought is just about over. Without doubt it is one of nature’s more beautiful oddities, and that is what it is, both beautiful and odd.
That’s the Monastery of the Holy Cross you see in the distance |
Here is the Hebrew Wikipedia entry on "Khatsav." For fun you can try and put it through Google translate to see what the English looks like.
If you are a real botanist you will love this page, but even if you’re not, it has some fantastically detailed photos of the plant that include all its parts in every season of the year. In case the link just given doesn’t work for you, try searching the web for “Flora of Israel and Adjacent Areas" by Avinoam Danin and Ori Fragman-Sapir. The whole site is worth exploring, and if you are English-reading, start here and give it time to display over 3,000 items.
Last but best, here are two beautiful paintings by the Orna Bentor who died this year, courtesy of her webpage:
https://www.ornabentor.com/ |
During all the years I’ve been living in Jerusalem, I’ve often had the idea I’d like to attend the annual reconsecration of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, probably the holiest and most significant church in all of Christendom. I know I haven’t told you the reasons for my interest yet, so just wait for it.
One of your first questions might be Why is any church anywhere consecrated (but especially here, in a spot that is regarded as already holy), but also When was this church consecrated to begin with? The right answer to the second question is probably the year 1149 CE, but please keep reading. There used to be a consecration inscription on the west wall of Calvary’s chapel. However, at some point that wall was removed in order to extend the floor and expand its available space.* Luckily various persons in the past copied parts of the Latin inscription so we know most of what it said by piecing them together.
(*In the process access was cut off to the second south entry door [the main access door into the church as a whole since crusader times] which was then walled up, explaining why the originally double doors are still today a single door, but I'll blog again on that.)
The English version of the no longer visible consecration inscription can be seen in Pringle’s gold-standard book:
“This place is holy, consecrated by the blood of Christ. By our consecration we add nothing to this sanctuary. But the house built over and around this holy place was consecrated on 15 July by Patriarch Fulcher with the other fathers. It was then the fourth year of his patriarchate and at the same time fifty years from the taking of the city, which was similar to pure . . . Similarly from the birth of the Lord were numbered 1149 years, the indiction being the (second, sixth and seventh) . . .”
But wait a minute, there was long ago a Basilica, the Anastasis or Martyrium,* built under Emperor Constantine and consecrated on September 13, 335 CE. You may say the Anastasis is no longer there, but that’s not 100% true. For one thing, you can still see a couple of black basalt pillars that marked the breezeway or atrium that divided the Anastasis entrance (and likely its stairsteps) from the Roman main avenue called the Cardo. The Cardo was otherwise lined with white pillars, so the black ones definitely stood out, which I suppose was the whole idea. To see for yourself, all you have to do is enter a nearby Russian church, the Alexander Nevsky. They ask an entrance fee, unlike other churches, because they are as much a museum as a church.** Once inside, just go to the distant-most corner of the lower floor and walk into the small area there. It used to be very dark, but nowadays you can see very well. You can even put your hands on the pillars, at least two are plainly visible and standing vertically. It's really special to be able to touch this piece of Jerusalem’s history.
(*Some called it the Martyrium, and that’s also interesting. Anastasis refers not to the death, but to the resurrection. Besides the basalt pillars, there are still more remains of the Anastasis including its 12-pillared apse, or some remains from it. As this church was oriented to the west, the new Crusader church was oriented to the east, so that the apse of one is practically on top of the apse of the other, even while oriented in opposite directions. I’ll want to go into that another time. **Speak Russian when you enter, but then you'll be expected to donate for a candle or two. Vegans will want to avoid the candles made of beeswax.)
But to get back to my line of thought on the enduring significance of the lost inscription, September 13 is not the day when the reconsecrations are performed by Catholics today. Today’s annual date was chosen because of the Crusader Era consecration of 1149. And notice those words “fifty years from the taking of the city.” Reason for the July 15th date? It was on July 15th, in the year 1099, that the Crusader army accomplished their siege of the city by breaching the city wall in the north. I don’t want to come down too hard on the Frankish conquerors. After all, it was common practice to punish the people who resisted all the more for their efforts. A difficult siege merits vengeance. In short, a blood bath followed, the local Christians may not have been entirely exempt from it, and I’ve never been able to get myself accustomed to the fact that the Christians continue to celebrate that day as somehow holy anyway.*
(*There are serious scholarly discussions about just how high the blood level could have been in the streets given the size of the city. And as many as 30,000 men, women and children were slaughtered. That was probably the entire population at the time.)
At the same time, apologies for my bluntness. Switching gears entirely, I’m very much interested in the ways religious people of every kind manage to make objects and places holy. And some aspects of Catholic consecration are especially interesting when you think in terms of laying out a sacred space and marking out its very special points of access and what meaning that would hold for those who worship in such a place. That’s why, as a student of religions and not myself a Catholic, I particularly wanted to see how it was done in traditional church dedications, so I read all the books on the subject I could find, taking advantage of some very good state and university libraries.
As a longtime dweller in Jerusalem, a city so holy it requires no consecration, it intrigues me that two major rituals in use in the European nations — both the rites of church or temple consecration and those of royal coronation — were by all accounts initiated by one and the same person: the reputed founder of our city three thousand years ago, King Solomon. If you were one of millions who watched the anointment of King Charles on television not long ago you must have noticed how, while “Zadok the Priest” was sung, the king, under cover of a walled canopy, was anointed by oil produced on the Mount of Olives, just outside Jerusalem’s Old City walls and sanctified by the Greek Patriarch in front of the Tomb in the Holy Sepulchre Church.*
(*The anointment oil, besides the olive oil, included many added fragrances, but at request of His Majesty, no animal-derived products were among them, no ambergris or civet. The walls around the canopy were also invented by him. You don’t see them in recent English or French coronations, only the canopy.)
The one rite among the several together making up the ritual of consecration that has most caught my attention was one called the Abecedarium. I realized that reading about it is one thing, and seeing how it was actually done another. How do they make the letters in the piles of ashes exactly? What is the procedure? Does it spell out its own meaning or would you have to ask the priest to explain it? Who ever tells you that the ash piles are flattened with a trowel? (I had no idea until I saw it done.) Perhaps the chanted Latin words have some clues? So many questions, and all of them can be answered if you just have a look at the following video clip from the nearly nine-hour ritual. The Bishop is inscribing the ashes with the letters of the two alphabets:
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(Note: I tried to embed a short video clip, but I believe my effort was an abysmal failure. That doesn’t need to be a problem, just go to the entire 9-hour video, move the slider two hours into it, and watch awhile. The link you need is just below.)
If you have infinite patience, or would like to develop the same, watch the entire video. If you are as pressed for time as I assume you are, move ahead to these starting points, to the parts I regard as the most interesting:
Fast forward to around 2:00 (two hours into it) for the ashes with the letters.Then I think the most interesting segments are at 3:48 when the reliquary is taken from the tent to the altar in a procession with participation by laypeople.*
(*The only layperson that had been allowed inside up to this point was the mason, who hasn’t done his job yet. You can see him up in our frontispiece dressed in black and leaning against a pillar.)Then at 4:47 where the cavity in the altar for the relics is consecrated... This cavity is called the sepulchrum, and that means a tomb, it is true that this part of the consecration, as it has to do with the relics of the saints, is largely based on funerary rites.For the mason doing his part, laying the mortar that will seal the relics inside the altar top: 4:53.An impressive episode in which carvings in cross shape on the altar top are filled with oil and lighted on fire: 6:12.
If you go first to the 9-hour video, you can find a link to the PDF of a large booklet that goes along with it. Not only does it have the Latin words with English translation, it also has serious and well considered discussions about the meaning and history of various aspects of the ritual.
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alphabetritus.
The explanation of the Abecedarium you find here on p. 475 is quite the ordinary one:“The abecedarium signified the rudiments of doctrine, as simple as the letters of the alphabet but, through the cross, the source of all wisdom and a guide to spirituality.”It usually isn't pointed out that, as cross-like as the design may be, it's •not• the cross of Jesus, and neither is it the cross of St. Peter, rather it is the cross of St. Andrew... It is X-shaped.
But then Bowen adds something I find more interesting:“It was long ago recognized that the abecedarium and the decussated cross had a counterpart in early baptismal rites in which a chrismon with pendent alpha and omega was shown to the neophyte.”It hadn’t occurred to me that the two things might be related, but now I’ve gotten inspired to look further into the chrismon in a future blog. It seems that in earlier times (as for instance in Dura Europas) the alphabets tended to be placed near the doors and windows, while the chrismon still tends to be placed above the doors (and sometimes on the sides).
(*The booklet, p. 29, translates it “How dreadful is this place!”)
(*I think the work in question is this one, although it is difficult for me to check: The Religious Ceremonies and Customs of All the Peoples of the World, in French, the first of its seven folio volumes appearing in 1723. I once saw it in Widener Library. There is a book about this book I would like to read. See Peter Harrington’s blog entry about it.)
“The Crusader church was not consecrated on the 50th anniversary of the conquest (July 15, 1149) but between the accession of Amalric in 1163 and the years 1167-69. This had been deduced from the charters of the church by de Vogüé in 1860 but many scholars had ignored him. The erroneous idea was based on the Latin inscription on the façade of Calvary, but the inscription refers only to the consecration of the Calvary chapels, not to the whole church (92-98).”
“I had never heard of reconsecrating a church every year. We do commemorate the consecration of a church every year, but we don't redo the ceremony. It would be like re-baptizing a Christian. I wonder why they would do this at the Holy Sepulchre?”
Sebastián Ernesto Salvadó, The Liturgy of The Holy Sepulchre and The Templar Rite: Edition and Analysis of The Jerusalem Ordinal (Rome, Bib. Vat., Barb. Lat. 659) with a Comparative Study of The Acre Breviary (Paris, Bib. Nat., Ms. Latin 10478), doctoral dissertation, Stanford University (August 2011). For free download, the only worthwhile kind there is, go here. Then scroll down to around p. 170.
June 10, 2023
An interesting wrinkle: I wasn’t sure if I could rely on any of the ideas I’ve run across about the age of the practice, but today I stumbled on an interesting reference to Abecedaria being inscribed on walls (not on the floor) close to the doorways in one of the earliest surviving Christian churches, the one in Dura-Europos. My source on this is Jodi Magness’ chapter “The ‘Foundation Deposit’ from the Dura Europos Synagogue Reconsidered,” contained in: Bonna D. Wescoat and Robert G. Ousterhout, eds., Architecture of the Sacred Space, Ritual, and Experience from Classical Greece to Byzantium, online publication of Cambridge University Press (2012), pp. 232-247, at p. 236. In the attached footnote, reference is made to C.B. Welles, The Excavations at Dura-Europos Conducted by Yale University and the French Academy of Inscriptions and Letters, Final Report VIII, Part II: The Christian Building (New Haven 1967), pp. 89-92, 95, 125-126. I will have to go see what that book has to say when I can find it. I’ve found a little bit about this in some other books. It does seem that the location of the Greek and Syriac (Estrangelo) alphabets indicates they have some ritual purpose, just what ritual purpose isn’t clear enough for me to say anything. But perhaps the key to understanding is there, somewhere, already in the time when the first house-churches were becoming churches. This begs for illumination. I’ll let you know what I find out.
October 15, 2023
I found out a new thing. I thought I might go to the church to see what happens on the annual founding anniversary for the Constantinian church. Then I saw the ritual processions that happened last year on that day posted as a video on the internet. Now I see that in Jerusalem, and only in Jerusalem, the day is celebrated by Romans. The Custodia put up a page with interesting information about it (and a series of around 30 photographs if you can find them there). It's called The Exaltation of the Holy Cross, celebrated not only at the Holy Sepulchre Church, but also at the Monastery of the Holy Cross in the western part of the city (by all means go to that link if you haven’t yet seen the interior of our neighborhood’s holy place). This is one holiday that the Greeks and Romans agree about, both celebrating it on the 14th of September according to the Gregorian calendar.
Not long ago the Van Leer Institute in our neighborhood had a viewing of a documentary about Spinoza followed by a discussion. The poster used to advertise it, when I saw it there in front of the Van Leer, puzzled me at first. I thought some hot-head had attacked the poster with red paint. But in reality the poster was made with the defacement already included. Reading the Hebrew you see it means “The Excommunicated.” His name was in fact crossed out of public records by people who strongly objected to his philosophical views. Which of his statements led to his excommunication? Nobody seems to know. For someone who talked so much about God, you wonder why he was called an atheist by so many.
Go here and you can see a brief preview of the movie in Hebrew, but don’t worry, it does have English subtitles. I learned that a death mask was taken when he died. Of course they used to do this a lot, still it was very striking to see how he must have looked. It seems very alive, to tell the truth. I was fortunate to live awhile in Leiden, not far from some of the places where he lived out his life, and I suppose that was the reason I read a biography of him not too long ago.
Meanwhile, I noticed in our neighborhood a defacement of a different image, that of the illustrious Lubavitcher Rebbe Menachem Mendel Schneerson, believed by some to be an up and coming savior, or at least he will be if he can manage to come back from the dead.
The back side of a traffic sign on Gaza Street, Rechavia |
Another question is, Who done it? Both [1] the (historically) unbelieving population of Rechavia as well as [2] the increasingly visible religious believers in other branches of Judaism besides the Chabad could have their motives. I might have never looked up to see the defaced posters if I hadn't seen the blood-like color splattered on the sidewalk.
Both the Philosopher and the Rabbi were condemned by a lot of people around them. That much they had in common. Best would be if we could see them as inspirations for developing our toleration and attempted understanding while leaving to one side our own fixed views — inspirations, not targets of our vilification. And of course not as targets of vandalistic zealotry like we see here. Today the real excitement in Rechavia is in the demonstrations every Saturday night. Stop and take a look at the time, it’s nearing the hour for the next one to begin. The newspapers are saying it will be the biggest one yet. Be well and keep safe.
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May 4, 2023:
Oh, and now you can see the complete documentary here. Just double click on the sentence preceding this one.
May 31, 2023:
At another location in the neighborhood, a sticker appears as a countertag on those Chabad posters. It reads as I translate it, “Chabad is a Lie.” Notice that someone tried, without much success, to tear those stickers off. I’ll let you know if more layers are added. And off to the side, notice the high-rise insanity taking place near the city's western entrance (more on that another time).
Stickers reading “Chabad is a Lie” tagged on posters pasted on the back of a street sign in Rechavia |
In an i24 News video entitled, “How important is Chabad to the Jewish world?” are some empassioned statements for and against the Chabad movement made by various Rabbis and community leaders. See if you can spot Rebbe Schneerson’s face among the many painted faces in the new mural that went up to be admired by arriving passengers at Ben Gurion International Airport in Lod.
Back in December, as soon as I saw the new holiday decorations put up by the municipality, I had no doubt the three components represented three religions, the same three recognized as being such by the state of Israel: Judaism, Christianity and Islam. The dreidels are an obvious reference to Hanukah, the holiday where they are often in use. Oddly enough, the other representations are more hidden and abstract. The most colorful of the three, which could be a painted snowflake, I believe to be a Christmas tree ornament. Please correct me if I’m wrong. The third one, least obviously, has to be Islam. In other examples the point could have been made more clearly, but this represents the geometrical and symmetrical abstractions of Islamic non-representational art.
I wish I could have been a fly on the wall when the committee was deliberating all of this. What amazing discussions must have taken place! How did they reach their agreements? Who were the more accommodating voices? Who the resistant and inflexible ones? What compromises were made?
Is it possible Jerusalem may be moving into the direction of Haifa where the entire Abrahamic community comes out to celebrate a single holiday festival, as you can see in this photo borrowed from the YouTube channel Relaxing Walker (relaxing.walker)?
The lamp is within glass, the glass as if it were a pearl-white star,
Lit from the oil of a blessed olive tree,
Neither of the east nor of the west,
Whose oil would almost glow even if untouched by fire.
I’m convinced this light if it could only be found by more of us would show the right way to communal understanding and coexistence. Because know it or not we’re already entirely interconnected.
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PS: Oh, and there is a fully trained and authentic Santa Claus who keeps a house right here in Jerusalem/al-Quds. That the gift giver is with us is surely worth knowing.
Meanwhile, from inside New Gate:
Chinggis Khan aka Genghis That I find these to be the most hideous monuments of our time is not entirely due to aesthetic considerations. No...